Five Ten NIAD VCS Climbing Shoes Review
The Five Ten NIAD VCS Climbing Shoes are designed for those who seek exceptional performance on the rock face. Manufactured by Five Ten, a pioneer in high-friction footwear, these climbing shoes feature cutting-edge design elements that cater to both novice and expert climbers. With nearly three decades of experience, Five Ten has crafted a product that promises unmatched grip and comfort, making these shoes a reliable choice for your climbing adventures.
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Features
- Unbeatable Grip: Stealth C4 sole provides exceptional traction on various surfaces.
- Edging Performance: The shoe's tension transfer from heel to forefoot excels on the smallest holds.
- Outstanding Comfort: Made with unlined Microfiber upper, ensuring comfort right out of the box.
- Extended Toe Rubber: Enhanced rubber coverage on the toe increases protection and grip for toe hooks.
- Snug Fit: Designed with a hook-and-loop closure for a precise fit.
Pros
- Excellent grip for challenging climbs.
- Comfortable for prolonged wear.
- Durable construction with extended toe rubber.
- Adjustable fit due to the hook-and-loop closure.
Cons
- May run slightly small; consider sizing up.
- Not ideal for wider feet without breaking them in.
Comparison With Other Similar Products
| Feature | Five Ten NIAD VCS | La Sportiva Theory | Scarpa Drago |
|---|---|---|---|
| Grip | Stealth C4 | FriXion RS | Vibram XS Grip2 |
| Edging Performance | Excellent | Very Good | Good |
| Comfort | Outstanding | Moderate | Good |
| Toe Protection | Extended Rubber | Standard | Enhanced Rubber |
| Closure Type | Hook & Loop | Semi-Automatic | Hook & Loop |
Detailed Review
The Five Ten NIAD VCS Climbing Shoes stand out in several areas that are crucial for any serious climber. First, let’s talk about grip. These shoes come equipped with a Stealth C4 sole, known for its ability to adhere to rocky surfaces like glue. Whether you're tackling a steep boulder problem or delicate foot placements, you will appreciate the solid footing these shoes provide.
Next is edging performance. Thanks to the unique design that channels tension from the heel to the forefoot, you'll find yourself confidently standing on the smallest footholds. This feature is especially beneficial when navigating technical routes where precision is key.
When it comes to comfort, the unlined Microfiber upper offers excellent breathability while ensuring that the shoe feels great right from the start. You won't have to suffer through long break-in periods, which can be a common downside with other climbing shoes.
Moreover, the extended toe rubber serves a dual purpose: it protects your toes and significantly enhances toe hooking capabilities. Whether you're executing dynamic moves or simply need added stability, this thoughtful addition makes a real difference.
Finally, the snug fit provided by the hook-and-loop closure allows for easy adjustments and a personalized feel. Just ensure to check your sizing as some users report that these shoes tend to run small.
Detailed Rating
| Category | Score | Description |
|---|---|---|
| Grip | 5/5 | Exceptional traction on all types of rock. |
| Comfort | 4.5/5 | Out-of-the-box comfort with minimal break-in needed. |
| Durability | 4/5 | High-quality materials ensure longevity. |
| Fit | 4/5 | Snug fit but may require sizing adjustments. |
| Value for Money | 4.5/5 | Solid investment for serious climbers. |
User Reviews
I’ve climbed a lot over the year with a combination of indoor and outdoor. I owned a pair of 5.10’s about 15 years ago. They are very comfortable. When I bought this pair and tried them on they were the same feel as the old ones. I like to have my shoes tight but not so tight that they need to come off before I descend the climbing route. I’m a size 11.5 in regular men’s shoes and I bought a 12 in the 5.10’s. They ended up being a perfect fit. If you’re a climber who’s looking to climb here and there, you should size up an entire size (I.e., if you wear 11, buy a 12). If your semi serious, size up a 1/2 size. If your super serious and want a very tight shoe, buy your correct shoe size.
My son requested these and the model & size was available. Perfect! He was very happy when they arrived. No more rentals at the indoor gym.
The quality of shoe was rather excellent, you can tell since Adidas took over the Quality Control, has gone up. I tried every new 5.10 NIAD shoe on the market, & these are the Most Robust(the lace are just as Narrow as the velcro trust me I tried. I couldn't fit in a size 14 or 15 without my toes being crushed on my left foot(before I got sick & began climbing for my health. Back when I was a teenager I Did Kickboxing & I have weird feet from breaking my toes and feet so many times. So finding a shoe has been a challenge. I don't have the normal ROMAN foot. My Second toe is equal to the length of my Big toe. Even before Kickboxing, I had BIG feet. In Street shoes, I wear a size 12.5 in DC, PUMA, KSwiss, but in NIKE, & Adidas I wear a size 13 wide. Tbh the only shoe that fit well & comfortably was the Niad Moccasym, & they fit in size 14. But there is no way to cinch the heal & if you don't size down to painful cramping foot status, the heal feels like it could pop off on moccasym. If you have Narrow feet this shoe could be for you. But if you have Greek or Egyptian feet, this is a no-go. I ended up Settling on the Scarpa Instinct VS, which is made for WIDE feet. Even if you have feet that are big all around there is enough room above the toes to accommodate swollen feet. Also, I HATE to wear shoes without socks. So I purposely size my climbing shoes to be worn with specific moisture-wicking socks. Don't expect a shoe that fits your barefoot to fit with a sock on. Not likely. That's how TIGHT a shoe needs to be, when you are sitting they should feel tight, with no discomfort or pain. When standing they should feel a little uncomfortable & over 5 sessions they will mold to your feet. Most Leather products will stretch up to a full size. Synthetics don't stretch much at all. So size right. I don't understand this 2 size down thing. I can fit my feet into a size 13 Evolv Agro, but they hurt so bad I could never climb in them. If the shoe hurts, it will hinder you, not aid you.
Tooooo small!
This shoe runs small, so make sure you get a size or bigger depending on your everyday shoe. The seller is kind and accommodating as well. Would buy from here again and the shoe is very nice looking. Comes from adidas and not a knockoff.
The "new and improved" Anasazi NAID VCS have been a disappointment. The shoe runs smaller than before and what was once the pinnacle of wide-footed comfort is now cramped pain. The durability has disappeared as my shoes of 8 months at a once-a-week climb now have a hole. My old Anasazi VCS in which I was climbing 2-3 times a week for 11 months looks better off for it. The only reason this is a two-star is that the rubber still sticks has excepted.TL:DR The "new and improved" Anasazi NAID VCS have failed to meet the standard of the Anasazi VCS they have replaced.
Runs a bit bigger than La Sportiva, so I bought half size plus. Fits perfectly
I take a 9.5 street shoe, ordered a 10.5 Anasazi based on posted reviews to order up a full size, and it was still way too small even taking into consideration for break in and stretch. Adidas sizing not the same as old Anasazis.