EVOLV Shaman Pro Climbing Shoe - Men's Black/White 8 Review
The EVOLV Shaman Pro Climbing Shoe is a game-changer in the climbing world, particularly for those who appreciate a blend of comfort and performance. Introduced as part of the 2023 Evo Lab family, this shoe redefines climbing shoe design by eliminating the need for painful downsizing that many climbers endure to enhance performance.
Thanks to Evolv's innovative Wrap technology, this shoe securely holds your foot around the instep, providing a snug fit without excessive pressure on your toes. The Shaman Pro maintains the fit reminiscent of Evolv's popular Shaman Lace and Shaman Strap models but offers a softer and more sensitive experience, making it ideal for competition-style bouldering and lead routes.
The incorporation of a very thin 'love bump' midsole alongside the advanced Wrap technology results in a sensitive shoe capable of smearing on various angles while retaining enough stiffness under the toes for explosive power off small holds. Impressively, you can expect a comfortable and powerful fit right out of the box.
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Features
- New softer, more sensitive comp style design
- Closure Type: Strap
- Unisex Fit
- Materials: Synthetic
- Midsole: 1.6mm soft plastic love bump / 1mm rubber midsole with arch support
- Outsole: 4.2mm TRAX SAS rubber
- Vegan Friendly
Pros
- Comfortable fit without painful downsizing
- High sensitivity enhances performance
- Excellent grip due to TRAX SAS rubber outsole
- Versatile for bouldering and lead climbing
- Machine washable for easy care
Cons
- May not provide enough stiffness for traditional climbers
- Not suitable for water exposure
Comparison With Other Similar Products
| Feature | EVOLV Shaman Pro | La Sportiva Theory | Scarpa Drago |
|---|---|---|---|
| Type | Sensitive Comp Style | Performance | Sport & Bouldering |
| Closure | Strap | Shoe Laces | Velcro |
| Material | Synthetic | Synthetic | Leather |
| Outsole Thickness | 4.2mm | 4mm | 3.5mm |
Detailed Review
When it comes to climbing shoes, the importance of fit and comfort cannot be overstated. The EVOLV Shaman Pro shines in the fit category thanks to its unique Wrap technology. This innovation allows for a secure yet comfortable hold, significantly reducing the discomfort often associated with tightly fitted climbing shoes.
The shoe's sensitivity sets it apart from many competitors. Whether you're ascending a steep boulder problem or tackling challenging lead routes, the combination of a thin midsole and soft materials ensures that you feel every nuance of the rock beneath your feet, allowing for precise foot placement.
In terms of grip, the TRAX SAS rubber outsole does not disappoint. It's designed to offer superior traction on various surfaces, enabling confident movement across different types of climbing challenges. However, it is worth noting that the shoe's softness might not cater to climbers who prefer a stiffer platform for more traditional climbing techniques.
Caring for your Shaman Pros is hassle-free; they are machine washable, which is an added bonus for climbers who often deal with sweaty and dirt-laden footwear. On the downside, these shoes aren’t meant for wet conditions, so if you frequently climb in rainy environments, you may want to consider other options.
Detailed Rating
| Category | Score | Description |
|---|---|---|
| Comfort | 9/10 | Exceptional comfort without compromising performance. |
| Sensitivity | 9/10 | Highly sensitive, ideal for nuanced foot placements. |
| Grip | 9/10 | Outstanding grip with the TRAX SAS rubber outsole. |
| Fit | 8/10 | Snug fit with innovative Wrap technology. |
| Durability | 7/10 | Good durability, though softer materials may wear faster. |
User Reviews
Great shoe for steep and vert face climbing. Way stiffer then your typical bouldering slipper but lends well to edging. Smears pretty well for downturned performance oriented shoes. Its a bit softer compared to regular Shaman but not by much. I found strap system fit my foot better than regular Shaman and can tighten them down across my feet a lot better (On regular Shaman, I had the 3 velcro straps as tight as I could and still had too much movement in the heel).I sized up to an 11.5 in Shaman Pro which is a full size up from my street shoe of 10.5. They are still tight and performance fit with all toes in a crimp position but not painful. Still breaking them in after 6 sessions on the wall and outside in Clear Creek. There has been little to no stretch (but to be expected since they are synthetic).