EVOLV Shaman Climbing Shoes - Gold/Grey/White 11 Review
The EVOLV Shaman Climbing Shoes are engineered to elevate your climbing experience, whether you're scaling indoor walls or tackling outdoor crags. With a modern cambered design, these shoes cater to climbers who push their limits across various terrains. The synthetic vegan upper is not only durable but also boasts an aggressive profile that keeps your feet positioned for optimum power during climbs. The shoe's construction helps minimize stretching over time, ensuring longevity without sacrificing performance.
Ideal for both steep routes and overhanging climbs, the Shaman excels in providing precise footwork and support. Featuring a tensioned heel rand, these shoes deliver significant power on small edges while still allowing flexibility for those demanding vertical angles. The love bump midsole strategically places your toes into a crimped position, enhancing grip and control while the knuckle box ensures comfort by preventing toe crushing. If you’re searching for a climbing shoe that harmonizes comfort with efficiency, the Shaman might just be your perfect match.
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Features
- Upper: Synthetic (Synthratex VX)
- Profile: Downturned Asymmetric Profile
- Midsole: MX-P 1.6mm Half-Length with Love Bump midsole
- Outsole: 4.2mm TRAX SAS Rubber
- Rand: VTR rand (Thicker Front Toe Area)
- Best Use: Bouldering on all types of rock, Gym Climbing, Steep single pitch routes
- Vegan Friendly: Yes
Pros
- Exceptional performance on steep and overhanging routes
- Comfortable fit with minimal dead space due to innovative design features
- Durable vegan materials ensure long-lasting use
- Tensioned heel rand provides great support on small footholds
Cons
- Downturned profile may not suit beginners or those preferring neutral shoes
- Higher price point compared to some entry-level models
Comparison With Other Similar Products
| Feature | EVOLV Shaman | La Sportiva Theory | Scarpa Drago |
|---|---|---|---|
| Upper Material | Synthratex VX | Leather/Synthetic | Microfiber |
| Midsole | MX-P 1.6mm Half-Length | LaspoFlex | Flexan |
| Outsole Thickness | 4.2mm | 4mm | 3.5mm |
| Best Use | Bouldering, Gym, Steep | Sport, Crag | Bouldering, Sport |
| Vegan Friendly | Yes | No | Yes |
Detailed Review
Comfort: The Shaman delivers an impressive level of comfort straight out of the box. With its knuckle box and love bump design, you won’t feel the typical discomfort associated with climbing shoes. This makes them suitable for extended sessions without compromising on performance.
Performance: When it comes to performance, the Shaman stands out. Its downturned asymmetric profile allows for powerful toe placements, making it particularly effective on challenging routes. Whether you are bouldering or tackling gym climbs, the shoe adapts well to different rock types, providing excellent traction and stability.
Durability: Crafted from high-quality synthetic materials, the Shaman is designed to withstand the rigors of climbing. The rubber outsole is robust enough for rocky terrains, while the upper holds its shape well, minimizing any potential stretch after prolonged use.
Versatility: One of the most appealing aspects of the Shaman is its versatility. It performs admirably in various climbing scenarios, including steep single-pitch routes and intricate gym settings. The shoe’s capability across multiple environments makes it a reliable choice for climbers who enjoy exploring different styles.
Detailed Rating
| Category | Score | Description |
|---|---|---|
| Comfort | 9.5 | Outstanding comfort with innovative design features. |
| Performance | 9.8 | Exceptional power and precision for advanced climbs. |
| Durability | 9.0 | High-quality materials ensure longevity under tough conditions. |
| Versatility | 9.2 | Effective across various climbing styles and environments. |
User Reviews
These shoes are amazing, I ordered them 1/2 size up where as my other two pairs of Evolv shoes (Kronos and Zenist) are 1 size up and when I first put them on I thought I made a big mistake in getting them in size 11 instead of 11.5 like my other two pair but I'm so glad I kept them. After a few days of wear (not even at the gym yet, I've found just sitting at the computer helps so much to break in new shoes less painfully) they started to mold to my foot and now I understand exactly what people mean when they say that, it's actually incredible, if you look inside it looks like a big mold of my foot as if the shoes were designed for me.If you have an incredibly wide toe box like I do and struggle to find aggressive shoes that don't hurt your feet so bad you can't even function with them on give the Shaman's a shot. I expected to only like them on overhangs but I was surprised to find them perfectly acceptable on vert and slab as well, they really are a great all around shoe (though as some have mentioned smearing are really the only thing they don't feel really good with but even then they're fine, just obviously not the best). The love bump is an especially nice feature, it definitely helps keep power through the toes with less discomfort. I hope Evolv never stops making these shoes because Chris Sharma's design is incredible and I never want to stop being able to wear them, no joke. Even with things like smearing not being the best with this shoe, the fact that it actually works well for my weird foot shape makes these easily the best climbing shoes I've ever worn.
These shoes have been great. They are very aggressive fit. I purchased in August and have lasted about 4 months of climbing, 4 times a week. I normally wear a size 11 and down sized to a 10.5. It took about two months with a lot of pain at toe box for the shoes to fit. Do not down size! I've used for indoor and outdoor rock climbing and wear them walking around the gym (i don't take them off between climbs) Overall my favorite climbing shoes I've owned so far.Fyi: My gym I climb at is new and also the walls are textured with almost like fine sandpaper. So you might get more time out of your shoes then I did.
I'm sure this pair might fit great for some people but for me the toe box was too tight and uncomfortable. Bleeding after a few climbs and cannot endure the pain. Didn't even size down.
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