EVOLV Phantom Climbing Shoes - Men's Black/White 9.5 Review
The EVOLV Phantom Climbing Shoes represent the apex of climbing footwear, crafted through a collaboration with elite athletes like Daniel Woods and Paul Robinson. These shoes are engineered with advanced technologies to deliver respectably high performance, perfect for those challenging climbs you aspire to conquer.
Utilizing NEOFLEX technology, the Phantom's knuckle box offers flexibility and comfort, allowing it to adapt to your foot's movements without compromising fit over time. This is crucial during intense climbs when precision and comfort are paramount.
Moreover, the TPS+ ensures that your foot maintains optimal structure and support while achieving a downturned toe position, giving you the edge needed for dynamic maneuvers. With an Abridged Variable Thickness (AVT) midsole, this shoe strikes a balance between sensitivity and support, making every foothold feel secure.
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Features
- DARK SPINE S: Offers enhanced structure and sensitivity.
- AVT PLASTIC MIDSOLE: Combines sensitivity with necessary support.
- TRAX SAS: Delivers excellent friction and durability.
- COMPRESSION CLOSURE SYSTEM (CCS): Features a 6-point single-pull closure for an ideal fit.
- TPS+ RUBBER MIDSOLE: Maintains the downturned toe and provides arch support.
- MOLDED VTR: Employs variable thickness rubber to reduce pressure points and increase durability.
- Liner: Synthetic
- Midsole: MX-P: 1.6mm, AVT & TPS Rubber
- Outsole: 4.2mm TRAX SAS
- Profile: Downturned Asymmetric
- Upper: Synthetic (SYNTHRATEK VX)
- Vegan: Yes
- Weight: 9oz per shoe (size 9 US men's)
Pros
- Excellent sensitivity and grip on various surfaces.
- Comfortable fit with reduced hot spots due to innovative design.
- Lightweight construction aids in agility.
- Durable materials ensure longevity even under strenuous use.
- Vegan-friendly materials cater to eco-conscious climbers.
Cons
- Some users may find the aggressive downturn uncomfortable for prolonged use.
- Not water-resistant, which might limit use in wet conditions.
- Higher price point compared to entry-level models, although justified by performance.
Comparison With Other Similar Products
| Feature | EVOLV Phantom | La Sportiva Theory | Scarpa Drago |
|---|---|---|---|
| Closure Type | Hook & Loop | Velcro | Velcro |
| Weight (per shoe) | 9 oz | 8.5 oz | 9 oz |
| Downturned Profile | Yes | Yes | Yes |
| Vegan | Yes | No | No |
Detailed Review
The EVOLV Phantom excels in multiple climbing disciplines, from bouldering to sport climbing, thanks to its robust build quality and technological advancements. The DARK SPINE S feature allows for remarkable heel-hooking capabilities, which many climbers will appreciate during tricky moves. Furthermore, the advanced compression closure system provides a snug fit that keeps your foot securely in place without sacrificing comfort.
When it comes to sensitivity, the AVT plastic midsole shines, allowing climbers to feel every nuance of the rock, translating into better control and confidence while navigating complex routes. The shoe's rubber outsole, made from TRAX SAS, ensures exceptional friction even on slippery surfaces, making it a versatile choice for outdoor adventures.
However, it's important to note that while the aggressive downturn improves performance, it may not be suitable for everyone, especially those who prefer a more relaxed fit. Additionally, the lack of water resistance can be a drawback during unexpected weather changes.
Overall, if you're seeking a climbing shoe that combines advanced technology, comfort, and durable performance, the EVOLV Phantom should be at the top of your list.
Detailed Rating
| Category | Score | Description |
|---|---|---|
| Comfort | 4.5/5 | Well-fitted with minimal hot spots. |
| Sensitivity | 5/5 | Exceptional feedback from the ground. |
| Durability | 4/5 | High-quality materials withstand wear. |
| Performance | 5/5 | Outstanding grip and support on difficult climbs. |
| Value for Money | 4/5 | Premium pricing but justified by performance. |
User Reviews
Great shoes for bouldering and small foot holds
I've many climbing shoes, but after I got these, I'll never get anything different than this model.
Best shoe I’ve ever worn, half size down from the Evolv X1s. Fits amazing, worth the money.
They are stiffer than my old Sportiva Solutions, but more comfortable than my 5.10 Dragons (before Adidas bought them) . Since I had never tried Evolv, I decided to give them a shot and I am pleased. I use them mostly for indoor because I'm in Florida, but I generally climb enough to eat through the toes of a quality shoe in about a year and change. I followed the directions for fit and they fit perfectly.
I am too upset and disappointed, I bought these shoes for a gift and upon receiving them I noticed that the box was in very bad condition so I decided to open it to see the shoes only to realize that they were second hand! Additionally, the box had body hair inside. Disgusting.
Last Update 11/2022. Just commenting on wear/longevity. I've got more than 120 climbing days on mine now and still not needing a resole, they don't smell either which I'm even more surprised about. I've read a few reviews of defects and delaminating but it seems to happen pretty quick if they are going to do it. I'm definitely surprised at how well these are wearing, I'm getting a bit thin on areas I use the most but still in great shape.Updating 02/2022. Have put these through the ringer, they are my favorite shoe ever for sport and bouldering, full stop. There's better shoes for trad but I have not used a better shoe otherwise. I still stand by sizing up one full size, they soften but don't quite break in the same as shoes with more leather or fabric. I would give them a good 10 - 12 hours of climbing before anything comparable to break-in should be expected. But they are simply amazing for what they're made for, they actually do smear better than I was expecting, but for edging and small holds that you may not have trusted before, they are killer. At a gym, even the beveled edges between plywood on certain wall types become confidently in play for footwork.Original:Will update review as I use these more, but wanted to comment on the sizing. I thought these might be sized more like other brands compared to evolv's normal crazy small sizing, they are not. If you have shamans, acros, or oracles, etc., just size these the same. I tried 1/2 size up first, it took me about 5 minutes to get one foot in and I almost couldn't get the shoe back off, not even joking for a few minutes I thought I might have to cut it off my foot. Swapped for 1 size up and they are still brutally tight, and I have used aggressive shoes for years now, at 1 size up, these are just bearable out of the box, that about all I can say. Unless you have very arched feet, I can't imagine less than 1/2 size up being usable, let alone street shoe size. I can say without a doubt there is no chance I could get my foot in a 9.5 of these, my foot is literally about 3/4 inch longer than the entire +1 10.5 size shoe, but my feet are relatively flat so that may be a factor.Otherwise they are basically a shaman with a much better heel and a much better lacing system. I've always like lace better and these are basically velcro with the benefit of full lacing. Adjusting the straps is a bit tedious, but once you get it, they snug up perfectly. The heel is much better than shamans IMO, plenty deep but more narrow which eliminates dead space. If you have a wide heel, this may not work. Also, it doesn't cut in my ankle like many other shoes, anasazi's and most sportivas for example.I do not think these shoes are particularly sensitive, they have the typical thick evolv sole, which means you can stand on basically anything, but can't feel a whole lot. Not a beginner shoe by any means, smearing isn't going to be a lot of fun either, but for edging and steep overhanging, heel hooking, toe hooking, these are absolutely killer. You get a huge amount of power transfer with the shape and the tightness and stiffness.My other one area of concern is the heel straps don't feel super strong, and as hard as these are to get on, that may be a problem. I've been trying to get them on without the straps at all to hopefully save them so we'll see how it goes over time.Will update as I wear them more. So far they're what I was expecting, except the size is just typical evolv which means go up, not down. They're also almost entirely rubber so I'm interested in seeing how and where they soften over time, definitely the most rubber of any shoe I've ever seen, there's almost no visible fabric anywhere.