Butora Gomi Climbing Shoe - Wide Fit Seagrass 6.5 Review
The Butora Gomi Climbing Shoe in Wide Fit Seagrass 6.5 is a remarkable blend of comfort and performance, specifically designed to enhance your climbing experience. With its down-turned design, this shoe excels in both sport climbing and bouldering scenarios. Its construction features Butora's innovative NEO Fuse sticky rubber, ensuring that you have optimal grip on various surfaces. This model is softer compared to other aggressive shoes from Butora, making it an excellent choice for climbers looking for a balance between sensitivity and support.
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Features
- NEO Fuse Sticky Rubber (4mm Outsole) for superior traction
- Large thin sticky rubber toe patch enhances sensitivity and grip during toe hooking
- Power Rand rear rand effectively transfers power to the forefoot and toebox
- High tension heel rand directs power where you need it most
- 3D Molded heel cup provides durability by tucking under the rear rand
Pros
- Exceptional comfort for extended wear
- Excellent sensitivity allows for precise foot placements
- Durable construction for long-lasting performance
- Versatile for both sport climbing and bouldering
Cons
- May take some time to break in for new users
- Wide fit might not suit all foot shapes
Comparison With Other Similar Products
| Product | Features | Target Use | Fit Type |
|---|---|---|---|
| Butora Gomi | NEO Fuse Rubber, High Tension Heel | Sport Climbing, Bouldering | Wide |
| La Sportiva Theory | Pretension Design, Vibram XS Grip | Bouldering | Narrow to Medium |
| Scarpa Drago | Soft Flex, SRT Rubber | Bouldering, Sport Climbing | Narrow |
Detailed Review
When it comes to performance climbing shoes, the Butora Gomi stands out with its thoughtful design and advanced materials. Let's break down its strengths:
- Comfort: The Gomi’s softer structure makes it comfortable for longer sessions, ideal for climbers who prioritize time spent on the wall. The wide fit accommodates those with broader feet without compromising on performance.
- Grip: The NEO Fuse sticky rubber outsole offers impressive traction, making it less likely for you to slip while executing challenging maneuvers. The large toe patch is particularly useful for precision moves.
- Power Transfer: With its Power Rand technology, the shoe effectively channels force from your heel to your toes, enhancing your pushing power on steep climbs.
- Durability: The reinforced heel cup ensures that the shoe maintains its shape and performance over time, even with frequent use.
However, like any product, it has a few drawbacks. Users may find the break-in period a bit lengthy, which could be uncomfortable initially. Additionally, while the wide fit serves many climbers well, it may not suit everyone’s foot shape perfectly. Overall, the Butora Gomi strikes a commendable balance between comfort and performance, making it a worthy addition to your climbing gear.
Detailed Rating
| Category | Score | Description |
|---|---|---|
| Comfort | 9/10 | Soft and accommodating fit for prolonged use. |
| Grip | 10/10 | Outstanding traction on various surfaces. |
| Power Transfer | 8/10 | Effective energy transfer but depends on fit. |
| Durability | 9/10 | Robust construction suitable for regular climbers. |
User Reviews
i was looking to replace my scarpa instinct vs's and these were great. I would of got more of these shoes but the heel cup was just a little different fit than what I usually like from the scarpa instincts which is snug for my heel shape.
I have a wide toe box and a narrow heel, and wore Butora Narsha shoes for years while they still were available. I mostly sport climb on 10 to 60 degree overhanging terrain, and like my heel hooks, toe hooks, knee bars, and bat hangs.I appreciate the extra top rubber on these shoes. I suppose I could train weighted inverted toe raises to get good at toe hooks and bat hangs in other shoes, but I'd rather eat ice cream instead.The rubber on these shoes is soft and sticky and better for smearing than for edging on granite micro crystals. For hard slab edging I would prefer a stiffer shoe, but I don't climb much in that style these days.The heel cup is snug. I'm not sure it's as awesome as the Narsha heel cup (which had extra Velcro to help lock it down), but it's still miles more secure than almost anything else out there for me.I bought these in size 11 (44 EU), about the same as my street shoe. They're pretty comfortable, and I may go half a size down next time if I notice a performance hit as these break in. Fit is very similar to my Scarpa Instinct VS, size 44 EU. I have no idea how sizing compares with La Sportiva, since I've been unable to unlock the inscrutable mysteries of that brand since the day I retired my Mariachers.